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  • How to Winterize Your RV (and Why You Shouldn’t Skip It)

    How to Winterize Your RV (and Why You Shouldn’t Skip It)

    It only takes one hard freeze. Water left in your RV’s pipes freezes, swells up, and cracks the lines, the water pump, or the water heater. You won’t know until spring, when you turn on the water and find a leak under the floor.

    Winterizing means getting the water out, and protecting the pipes, before freezing weather hits. It’s one of the most important jobs an RV owner does every year. And most people can do it themselves in an hour or two.

    Do you need to winterize?

    If your RV will sit somewhere that gets below freezing, yes. Even here in Arizona, the high country around Flagstaff and the White Mountains gets plenty cold. If you’re storing your RV up north, or taking it somewhere cold, plan on it.

    If you live in your RV through the winter, that’s a different job. You’d keep the heat on and protect your hoses and tanks instead.

    Read your owner’s manual first

    Every RV is a little different. Your manual will tell you where your drains, valves, and water heater bypass are. Some RVs have a built-in winterizing setup that makes it much easier. Take a few minutes to find these parts before you start.

    What you’ll need

    • RV antifreeze (the pink kind). Usually a few gallons is plenty, depending on your RV.
    • A water heater bypass kit, if your RV doesn’t already have one
    • A pump converter or siphon kit, if your RV doesn’t have a built-in winterizing hookup
    • Basic tools for your water heater’s drain plug
    • Gloves

    Important: Only use RV antifreeze. Never use car antifreeze in your water lines. Car antifreeze is poison.

    Step 1: Drain the water

    1. Turn off the water heater and let it cool down. Never drain hot water.
    2. Dump and rinse your black and gray tanks.
    3. Drain the fresh water tank.
    4. Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve on top, then take out the drain plug or anode rod. Let it drain all the way.
    5. Open the low point drains. These are small drain lines under the RV, one for hot and one for cold. Let them drain, then close them.
    6. Open all the faucets, hot and cold, and the shower, to let the last water out. Then close them.

    Step 2: Bypass the water heater

    Turn the water heater bypass valves so the water heater is skipped. If you don’t, you’ll fill the whole water heater with antifreeze. That wastes a lot of it.

    Step 3: Add the antifreeze

    1. Hook the siphon tube or winterizing hookup to your jug of RV antifreeze.
    2. Turn on the water pump.
    3. Go to each faucet, one at a time. Open the cold side until pink antifreeze comes out. Close it. Then do the hot side. Start with the faucet closest to the pump, then work your way to the farthest one.
    4. Don’t forget the shower, the outside shower if you have one, and the toilet. Flush the toilet until you see pink.
    5. Turn off the pump.

    Step 4: Protect the drains

    Pour a cup or two of antifreeze down each sink and shower drain, and into the toilet. This protects the drain traps from cracking.

    If your RV has an ice maker, washer, or other water parts, check your manual for how to winterize them.

    Another way: blowing out the lines

    Some people use an air compressor to blow the water out of the lines instead of using antifreeze, or before adding it. You need an adapter for your city water inlet, and you must keep the air pressure low so you don’t damage the lines. Check your manual for the right pressure. Many owners use air first, then antifreeze, for extra protection.

    Travel trailer parked in snowy woods
    Photo from Pexels

    Before you store it

    • Take care of the batteries. Charge them all the way. Either keep them on a battery maintainer, or take them out and store them somewhere that won’t freeze.
    • Keep mice out. Clean out all food. Seal up small holes where pipes and wires come through. Mice love a parked RV.
    • Prop the fridge door open a little so it doesn’t get moldy.
    • Cover the RV, or at least the tires, if it will sit outside in the sun and weather.

    In the spring

    To get your RV ready again, you’ll flush the antifreeze out with fresh water, put the water heater plug back in, switch the bypass back, and sanitize the fresh water system. We’ll cover that in its own post.

    When to call a pro

    If you’re not sure where your drains and valves are, or you don’t want to mess with it, many RV shops winterize for a set fee. It costs a lot less than fixing frozen pipes.

    Next step: See more how-to help in our Fixing Your RV section.

  • How to Dump Your RV Black and Gray Tanks (Step by Step)

    How to Dump Your RV Black and Gray Tanks (Step by Step)

    Every new RV owner dreads this one. Let’s just say it: nobody buys an RV because they’re excited to empty the toilet tank.

    It’s easier than it sounds. Once you’ve done it a couple of times, it takes about ten minutes and it’s no big deal. Do it right and you won’t get anything on you. You also won’t have a smelly RV.

    Know your tanks

    Most RVs have three tanks:

    • Fresh water tank. Clean water for your sinks, shower, and toilet.
    • Gray water tank. Water from your sinks and shower.
    • Black water tank. Everything from the toilet.

    Some RVs have more than one gray tank. Your owner’s manual will show you where they are and where the valves are.

    The valves are usually handles you pull out to open and push in to close. They’re often near the sewer outlet on the side of the RV.

    What you need

    • A good sewer hose with fittings
    • Disposable gloves
    • A separate hose for rinsing (not your drinking water hose)
    • A clear elbow fitting is handy, so you can see when the water runs clean

    Step by step

    1. Put on your gloves. Every time.

    2. Make sure both valves are closed. Check before you take the cap off. If a valve was left open, you’ll find out the messy way.

    3. Hook up the sewer hose. Take the cap off the RV’s sewer outlet and attach the hose. Twist it until it locks. Put the other end firmly into the dump station or campground sewer hole. Many people put a rock or a weight on it so it can’t pop out.

    4. Dump the black tank first. Pull the black valve all the way open. You’ll hear it drain. Wait until it stops.

    5. Rinse the black tank if you can. Many RVs have a black tank flush hookup on the outside. Hook your rinse hose to it and run water until it comes out clear. If you don’t have one, you can fill the tank partway with water through the toilet, then drain it again.

    6. Close the black valve.

    7. Now dump the gray tank. Open the gray valve. The soapy gray water helps rinse the black water out of your sewer hose. That’s why you always do black first.

    8. Close the gray valve.

    9. Rinse and put away your hose. Rinse it out, drain it, cap the ends, and store it away from your fresh water gear.

    10. Put a little water back in the black tank. Flush the toilet a few times to put a few gallons back in, with a tank treatment if you use one. This helps keep things from drying and sticking to the bottom.

    11. Take off your gloves and wash your hands.

    Mistakes to avoid

    Don’t leave the black valve open at the campground. It seems easier when you have a sewer hookup. But the water drains out and the solids stay behind. They pile up and harden in the tank. Keep the black valve closed and dump it when it’s around two-thirds full.

    Use plenty of water. Water is what carries everything out. A tank that’s too dry can clog.

    Use RV toilet paper, or a toilet paper that breaks down fast. Regular thick toilet paper can clog the tank.

    Never put wipes in the toilet, even the ones that say flushable.

    Don’t trust the tank sensors too much. The gauges inside many RVs get confused and read “full” when they’re not, or the other way around. Get to know how long it takes your family to fill each tank.

    Watch your drinking water hose. Never use it to rinse sewer gear. Keep the two hoses apart.

    Where to dump if you’re not at a campground

    Lots of places have dump stations: many campgrounds, some truck stops and gas stations, and some RV dealers. Some are free and some charge a small fee. RV apps and websites list dump stations near you, so check before you head out.

    Never dump your tanks on the ground or down a storm drain. It’s illegal in most places and it’s bad for everybody.

    You’ve got this

    The first time feels like a big deal. By the third time, you won’t even think about it. Take it slow, follow the steps, and wear the gloves.

    Next step: Make sure you have the right gear with our first RV trip gear checklist.

  • What Gear Do You Need for Your First RV Trip? (Checklist)

    What Gear Do You Need for Your First RV Trip? (Checklist)

    You picked up your RV, drove it home, and parked it in the driveway. Now you’re standing there wondering what else you need.

    A lot of new owners find this out the hard way. Most RVs don’t come ready to camp. The dealer may toss in a starter kit, but it’s usually the cheap stuff. Some of the most important gear you have to buy yourself.

    This list covers what you need for a first trip. You don’t need everything in the store. Start with these, then add more as you learn how you like to camp.

    Water gear

    A drinking water hose. Get one made for drinking water. They’re usually white or blue and say “drinking water safe.” Don’t use a regular garden hose. Keep this hose only for fresh water.

    A water pressure regulator. It screws on where the hose meets the campground faucet. Some campgrounds have strong water pressure that can damage your RV’s pipes. This little part protects them.

    A water filter. It helps with bad taste, smell, and sediment. Campground water can vary a lot from place to place.

    Sewer gear

    A sewer hose kit. This is how your tanks drain into the campground’s dump. Get a good, thick one with the fittings included. Cheap thin hoses tear, and you do not want that to happen.

    Disposable gloves. Keep a box near your sewer gear. Use them every time.

    RV toilet paper and tank treatment. RV toilet paper breaks down quickly so it doesn’t clog your tank. Tank treatment helps with smell.

    A separate hose for rinsing. Use a different colored hose for rinsing out sewer stuff. Never use your drinking water hose for this.

    Power gear

    A surge protector. This one matters. Campground power can spike or drop, and that can fry the electronics in your RV. A surge protector plugs in between the campground pedestal and your power cord. Some models, often called an EMS, also cut the power if the voltage gets too high or too low.

    Power adapters. Campgrounds have 30 amp and 50 amp hookups, and sometimes regular household plugs. An adapter lets you plug in no matter which one your site has. Know which kind your RV uses.

    Leveling and parking gear

    Leveling blocks. Most campsites aren’t flat. Blocks go under your tires to level the RV. A level RV sleeps better, and your fridge works better too.

    Wheel chocks. They keep your trailer from rolling, mostly when you unhook it from the truck.

    A small level. Some people stick a bubble level on the front and side of the RV so they can see it while parking.

    Safety gear

    • A fire extinguisher. Most RVs come with one. Check that yours is there and charged.
    • A first aid kit.
    • A tire pressure gauge. Check your tires before every trip. Low tire pressure is a common cause of blowouts.
    • A flashlight or headlamp. You’ll use it more than you think, especially hooking up after dark.
    • Smoke, carbon monoxide, and propane detectors. Your RV should have them. Test them before you go.

    A basic tool bag

    You don’t need a full shop. A small bag with these handles most little problems:

    • Screwdrivers, including a square-bit one (lots of RV screws use them)
    • Pliers and a small adjustable wrench
    • Duct tape and zip ties
    • A tape measure
    • Work gloves

    Kitchen and camp stuff

    Motorhome at a campsite with folding chairs and a table set up outside
    Photo from Pexels

    Keep it simple your first time. Bring what you’d use at home, but less of it.

    • A couple of pots and a pan
    • Plates, cups, and utensils
    • Paper towels and trash bags
    • Dish soap and a sponge
    • Camp chairs
    • A simple outdoor mat for outside your door

    A good tip is to buy separate kitchen stuff just for the RV. That way it stays packed, and you don’t forget anything.

    What you can wait on

    Lots of gear is nice but not needed on day one: outdoor kitchens, fancy grills, satellite dishes, and big gadgets. Take a few trips first. You’ll quickly learn what you wish you had, and you won’t waste money on stuff you never use.

    One more tip

    Make a checklist and keep it in the RV. Before every trip, go down the list. After a few trips, you’ll add your own items to it. It saves a lot of “Oh no, we forgot the…” moments.

    Next step: Before your first trip, read how to dump your RV tanks. You’ll need it.

  • Where Can You Camp for Free in an RV?

    Where Can You Camp for Free in an RV?

    Campground fees add up fast. A few nights here, a week there, and suddenly the camping costs more than the gas.

    Here’s the good news. There are lots of places in the U.S. where you can park your RV and camp for free. RVers call it boondocking or dry camping. It means camping without hookups. No power cord, no water hose, no sewer.

    It takes a little planning. But for a lot of people, it’s the best part of RVing. Quiet, open space, and stars you can’t see in town.

    Public land

    Silver Airstream trailer camped alone in the desert
    Photo from Pexels

    This is where most free camping happens. A lot of land in the West belongs to the public, and much of it is open to camping. Arizona has plenty of it.

    BLM land. The Bureau of Land Management looks after huge areas of open land. Many of them allow free “dispersed camping,” which means you can camp outside of a set campground.

    National forests. Many national forests allow dispersed camping too, often along forest roads.

    A few rules you’ll see a lot:

    • Stay limits. Many areas let you stay about two weeks in one spot, then you have to move a good distance away. The exact rules change by area.
    • Use spots that are already used. Park where others have camped before. Don’t drive over plants or make new roads.
    • Fire rules. Fire bans are common, especially in dry seasons. Check before you light anything.

    Always check the rules with the local BLM or forest office before you go. They post them online, and they change.

    Store and business parking lots

    Some businesses let RVers park overnight. This isn’t camping. It’s a place to sleep on a long drive.

    You’ll hear about Walmart, Cracker Barrel, Cabela’s, Bass Pro, and some truck stops. But it depends on the store and the city. Some towns don’t allow it at all.

    If you try it:

    • Call or ask a manager first. Every time.
    • Park out of the way, away from the doors.
    • Don’t put out slides, chairs, or the awning.
    • Stay one night, buy something, and leave early.

    Being polite keeps these spots open for everyone.

    Other free or almost-free spots

    • Rest areas. Some states let you rest for a few hours. Others don’t allow overnight stays. Watch for the signs.
    • Casinos. Some allow RV parking. Call ahead and ask security.
    • Friends and family. Their driveway counts. Just ask first, and check their city and HOA rules.

    How to find spots

    You don’t have to guess. RVers share free spots online, with reviews, photos, and notes about the road in. Popular apps and sites include Campendium, iOverlander, and FreeRoam. Read the latest reviews. Road conditions and rules can change.

    Look at the road before you drive in. Some dirt roads are fine for a truck and a nightmare for a big trailer. If you’re not sure, park somewhere safe and walk or drive in with your tow vehicle first.

    Get your RV ready for no hookups

    Free camping means you bring everything with you. Here’s what to think about:

    Water. Fill your fresh water tank before you go. Learn to use less of it: short showers, and a water bottle at the sink.

    Power. Your RV batteries run the lights, water pump, and furnace fan. They won’t last forever. Many boondockers use a generator, solar panels, or both. Know your generator hours, since some areas have quiet hours.

    Tanks. Your gray and black tanks will fill up. Know how many days you can last, and where the closest dump station is.

    Trash. Pack out everything you bring in. Leave the spot cleaner than you found it.

    Cell signal. It can be weak or gone out on public land. Tell someone where you’ll be, and download maps before you lose service.

    Try it close to home first

    Your first night of boondocking doesn’t have to be far away. Pick a spot an hour or two from home, for one or two nights. You’ll learn how long your water and power last, and you can always drive home if something goes wrong.

    Next step: Look through our Places to Camp section for more ideas.